The best of south america

2008-11-16T18:40:00.000-08:00

Welcome to South America, and welcome to Chile! One of our city guides, Patricio, exemplified the care our tour company, Grand Circle Travel, took to meet our needs. Barb left her cane at home in Vestal, and Patricio took the time...........and his personal car..........to drive us to a hospital supply store for a replacement!

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The sewage-laden Mapocho river runs through Santiago, but in an effort to clean it, several filtering stations are being constructed along its route as it passes along. Much of the rapid moving water is from glacial melt. The girl? The drawing just happened to be there as I was taking a photo of the river........hmmmm.......

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One of the homes of the Nobel laureate Neruda.

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Santiago's main square, the Plaza de Armas, is a mix of old and new..........museums, government buildings, a cathedral, the post office and other important structures surround a large open plaza, where one finds mimes, artists, jugglers, roving musicians and folk who are on their way to one of the nearby markets.

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The Plaza de Armas has been a center of attractions and activities since its founding in 1541.

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.....inside the Cathedral church...........

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The presidential palace

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Here is a street scene in Santiago on a pedestrian mall. Wait til you see what's inside!

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We are promised scenery, and did we ever see it! This is the "coffee with legs" shop, and all the waitresses are dressed like this.

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The good news.........Grand Circle always stops at quality shops, whether leather, jewelry or the lapis luzuli semiprecious stones shown here. The bad news.......things are always pricey.

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We visit the port city of Valparaiso, ascending to the top of the mountain by these very old, and we hope very safe, cable cars.

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Valparaiso is a UNESCO designated World Heritage Site

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English influence is here, as well as other European cultures....

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Graffiti are high art here........

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Some scenes from Valparaiso

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.......we are entertained by a husband-and-wife duo.

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We enjoy another great lunch overlooking the city from atop the mountain..........and...........

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We visit a Chilean horse-breeding ranch, and are treated to an exhibition of the unique side-stepping training. We enjoy a meal at this ranch.

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In Chile the gaucho became the huaso; the skilled horseman who worked the vast herds on the cattle on the Chilean plains. They became experts at rounding up and corralling stray animals; this expertise is reflected in their rodeos which are held in media lunas (half circle arenas) resembling corrals.

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The Patagonian "rodeo" is not like ours.........success is when the two riders and their trained horses pin the steer along the corral wall.

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This was a historical museum, in the Puerto Montt area. You had to be there.

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We see an old washing machine, as well as a wide variety of old farm equipment, musical instruments, sewing machines and the like from days gone by. The farmers amongst us clearly identified some of the old stuff.

2008-11-16T13:36:00.000-08:00

Our whole tour group was divided; our subgroup was to locate smoked salmon in the Puerto Montt fish market. But we had no idea what we were looking for because the "shopping list" was totally in Spanish! By happy chance, we stumble on our assigned product, and when we all gathered together that evening, we enjoyed the fish, some cheeses, some crackers and a neat liquer as snacks before one of GCT's discovery lectures.

2008-11-16T10:38:00.000-08:00

And we leave Puerto Montt in Chile's Patagonia region, on our way to Argentina. We will use three different boats and four bus rides, in this trip which is described as one of the world's most spectacular day trips. It will take a full day and it turns into a great adventure.

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We view inspiring Andean peaks, including this extinct but stunning Osorno volcano.

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A large catamaran takes over the second set of lakes, with another bus meeting us to take us on the next leg.

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Our last lake to cross, our third boat.......

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We have four different bus rides............

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No, we really didn't ride on this one............!

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The next two pictures are taken as we drive along the long lake en route to Bariloche.

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Way off in the distance is our final destination, the town of Bariloche in Argentina. Note the Andes..........this is becoming a winter resort area.

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We see a group of guanacos, camel relatives which are in the wild. Their fur is even more expensive than cashmere, since they elude capture and shearing. (click on the picture to enlarge)

2008-11-14T14:10:00.000-08:00

Our early morning tour gets us to the chairlift to climb to the top of Campanario Hill, just outside Bariloche. A gringo (actually a native, but that term applies to anyone with blond hair!) takes our picture.

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An internationally known resort sits amidst wonderful scenery,as we look down from the Campanario hill near Bariloche.

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We have superb weather, and the Andes are so close we can reach out and touch them!

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Here we are, atop Campanario Hill, with breathtaking views in every direction.

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A gorgeous stopover on our way to a museum and chocolate factory. This picture is here because I liked it. So there.

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We stop by a Paleontology Musem, housing mammalian and dinosaur fossils, as well as an extensive mineral collection.

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We visit a chocolate factory, and then a brewery, during our last day in Bariloche.

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GCT always includes a home hosted dinner, and we are admirably hosted here in our first night in Buenos Aires. The hostess was joined by her daughter and husband, and all three proved to be congenial folk. It was a good start to learn about the city, and especially to come to realize that their are many European countries represented here; not only Spain but Italy, France and Germany among others.

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Our early morning tour includes the Plaza de Mayo, the historic core of Buenos Aires, created in 1580. Government buildings and a cathedral surround this large open area.

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"Veterans of the Malvinas war" says the sign........a protest group demanding benefits for those who fought for Argentina in the Falklands conflict, has erected a semi-permanent display in the Plaza de Mayo. This is the site of the Grandmothers campaign to locate children and grandchildren who "disappeared" in the 70's and 80's during the military dictatorship.

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Changing of the guard in the Buenos Aires Cathedral. They stand at the tomb of San Martin, Argentina's greatest hero.

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This giant flower in the Recoleta district is called..........The Giant Flower..........it closes at night, and is illuminated. Quite a show.

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Among other stops in our Buenos Aires tour, is a visit to the Recoleta cemetary, where
Eva Peron Duarte is laid in the family tomb.

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Grand Circle gives us several optional experiences, and this is one on the heels of a tango lesson we get at the hotel...........this is a sophisticated show and dinner, one of the best in all Buenos Aires.

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The tango show is first-rate, and the Argentine beef is absolutely delicious! The show is pricey, but what the hey..........

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We start our cruise of the Parana river delta at the town of Tigre, not far from Buenos Aires. This delta has many arms, with a network of islands and wetlands. Vintage wooden commuter boats and motor launches are favorite ways of travel here.

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The contrast between very modern commercial marinas, and some derelicts we see on our river cruise, is noteworthy. But it is evidence of the vast activity within the delta system. The Parana river delta is the only one in the world which does not flow into the sea, but rather is in contact with still another river.

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Some homes are elegant mansions, some are humble dwellings, and the whole delta system teems with activity for both locals and tourists alike.

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The Parana river delta is a vast interconnecting series of waterways, used for a host of recreational purposes as well as a home for a large number of people. Rowing clubs, lodges, restaurants, teahouses and other facilities are located here.

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Our boat docks on an island where the free La Concepcion, a Catholic day school, serves about 200 local kids. The school is sponsored by the Grand Circle Travel Foundation. Our hearts go out to the welcome given us by this group of lovely young ladies..........and we continue to be impressed by the care and love their teachers give to all the youngsters.

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Here are some youngsters, early elementary by their looks.........but the day school keeps kids through middle school years, as we see in one classroom where older ones are doing some algebra. The lack of supplies and technology support is appalling, however.

2008-11-13T08:28:00.000-08:00

Our newly "adopted" kids...........my guy is sort of a cutup....he has THAT grin on his face.........he liked to grab my hand and punch one of his buddies with it.........all the time looking angelic!

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We join in with a song which welcomes us to a visit to their school. By now, we have been paired with a host or hostess who take us by the hand and lead us through the school rooms.

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As we return to our cruise on the Parana delta, we wave goodbye to our new young friends.

2008-11-12T13:53:00.000-08:00

This is the entrance to "The Devil's Throat", a park of the Argentine Iguassu falls. From here we take a short tram ride to the boardwalk which we will use to see these amazing falls. We will look for cascades of 350' at this location.

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We are pretty woofed but the walk is worth it............Iguassu falls is a natural phenonmenon beyond description..........the volume of water cascading is incredible...

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We have walked over a mile along a metal catwalk to get to this site, but it is spectacular. Words cannot describe the awesome power of water cascading over these cataracts. Check the rainbow.....

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This is a coati mundi, the relative of our north american raccooon. This critter is perfectly adjusted to humans, and is looking for a handout!

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We see the spectacular Iguassu falls from the Brazil side. The views are even better here than from the Argentine side! Here, after presenting our visas to enter Brazil, we are really up-close-and-personal to the gigantic waterfalls. We even get damp from the mist from the water cascading below!

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The Iguassu falls are on the border between Argentina and Brazil, and each country has a national park for them. The falls are far more extensive than Niagara Falls, and are rivaled only by Victoria Falls in Africa.

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Pillar, our GCT director, has been an absolute gem! We loved her for all she did to smooth the path for us. She made sure we were at the right place at the right time, and she told us what to look for. A superb leader!

2008-11-12T12:24:00.000-08:00

A walkway to the base of "The Devil's Throat" allows a wide view of the falls. It is wet! Even worse (or better, depending on your view) is a zodiac ride INTO the falls themselves!

2008-11-12T12:14:00.000-08:00

Our last night at Iguassu falls finds us attending a Samba folklore show. Dances of Paraguay, Argentina and Brazil are featured in this performance. Another steak dinner, a good one!

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We are dazzled by the spectacular costumes, and the energy of the dancers...

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Some of our GCT tour group, more intrepid than the rest of us, take up the invitation to come on stage and participate!

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And one of the highlights of the tour of Rio, a visit to the Christ the Redeemer statue on Corcovado mountain. This structure overlooks the city and countryside for miles and miles. It stands 120', and is made of concrete and soapstone.

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Our city tour in Rio takes us to the site where the annual carnival takes place, and includes a stop in the impressive conical Cathedral of Rio de Janeiro

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Spectacular stained glass panels in the Cathedral

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The famous Sugar Loaf mountain, looming over Rio. It is so named because it resembles an old practice of storing sugar in cones. We walk to a cable car which will take us to the very top. (reminder...........double click on any picture to enlarge the view)

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Even the faint at heart endure these two long cable car rides to the top............the day is splendid, the views marvelous...........and, we pass this way but once......

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It is a clear day, and we can see forever............the city, the beaches of Copacabana and Ipanema, the airport......we are blessed with clear weather, because the next days are foggy and drab.

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Atop Sugarloaf mountain

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This is the very place........where she walked......Tall and tan and young and lovely, the girl from Ipanema goes walking, and when she passes, each one she passes, goes "Ahhh!" Oh, but he watches so sadly, How can he tell her he loves her? Yes he would give his heart gladly..........but each day when she walks to the sea, she looks straight ahead not at he..........

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We have a free day in Rio and decide to visit the famous Botanic Garden. Our hotel taxi takes us there, and waits for a couple of hours while we explore this subtropical paradise.

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Barb, Lynne and Fred, on our excursion to the Rio Botanic Garden. We become acquainted with many taxonomic relatives of our north American flora, but these plants here are largely not familiar to us specifically.

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Yes........can it be? Is this the real thing? Of course, the King and Queen of Portugal, here in the gardens!

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Here, a stop in the orchids pavilion of the botanic garden.

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All the beaches of Rio, including this one in front of our hotel, have boardwalks of intricate geometric patterns. And the beaches are
broad and clean, hosting thousands of people enjoying the seaside. We are cautioned on our sunday morning stroll by a couple of joggrs to "take our picture machine and get back to the hotel".............the favela, the slums of Rio, are closeby, and unwary tourists can be relieved of cameras, wallets or jewelry with no recourse of recovery. One goes to the beach with suit, towel and old sandals.........

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The last has come up first (sorry about that) so click on the word "home" under the picture. That will take you to the proper beginning.
So we say "adios, amigos"! as we prepare to leave beautiful Rio. It is a city of contrasts, great wealth and extreme poverty.
But our whole experience is South America is one of learning and discovery..........the lands, the people, the friends we made, all contributed to a marvelous trip!